The vintage Burberrys Nova Check trench coat is more than just a piece of clothing—it is a perfect blend of British tradition and sophisticated design.
Loved by fashion enthusiasts worldwide for decades, understanding its history, features, and value, as well as how to care for and store it, will deepen your appreciation for this iconic coat.
- History and Evolution of Burberry
- Differences Between Burberrys and BURBERRY
- About Burberry’s Product Lines
- Japanese Lines
History and Evolution of Burberry
Image source：BURBERRY
Burberry was founded in 1856 by Thomas Burberry, a 21-year-old entrepreneur, in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England. It is a traditional luxury fashion brand with a long-standing heritage.
In 1879, Burberry invented gabardine, a new fabric known for its breathability, durability, and water resistance, and patented it in 1888. This innovation transformed conventional rainwear and laid the foundation for the modern trench coat. Coats made from gabardine were adopted by British officers during the Boer War in 1895, earning recognition for their durability and practicality.
The brand logo featuring an equestrian knight was introduced in 1901, and by 1914, the prototype of the modern trench coat was developed in preparation for World War I. These coats were used by the military during the war and later became globally popular as fashion items.
Image source：BURBERRY
In the 1920s, the iconic Nova Check pattern was introduced as the lining of the coats and subsequently trademarked, becoming a symbol of the Burberry brand.
In 1999, the brand name changed from “Burberrys” to “BURBERRY,” accompanied by a refreshed logo and updated designs, helping the brand gain support among younger generations while maintaining its heritage and prestige.
Differences Between Burberrys and BURBERRY
Burberrys
Image source：BURBERRY
The name Burberrys was used from the brand’s founding until 1999.
Tags often read “Burberrys’” or “Burberrys of London.” Burberrys is recognized as a distinguished, traditional brand, particularly for its trench coats and Nova Check patterns.
The brand exudes a classical and refined aura, conveying elegance, intelligence, and reliability. Its emphasis on durability and functionality reinforces the trustworthiness of its garments as lifelong pieces.
BURBERRY
Image source：BURBERRY
Introduced after the brand’s reorganization in 1999, modern BURBERRY features simple, urban designs and incorporates streetwear and casual elements, appealing to younger audiences.
While retaining traditional symbols such as the classic trench coat and Burberry Check, BURBERRY merges heritage with innovation, pursuing a contemporary, minimalistic style.
About Burberry’s Product Lines
Burberry offers a variety of brand lines, each with distinct designs and target audiences.
When selecting vintage items or trench coats, knowing which line a product belongs to can help you find a piece that suits your style and preferences.
Mainline
The mainline refers to products manufactured in the UK and imported to Japan. This line emphasizes luxury and authentic British quality.
Historically, Burberry had multiple sub-lines, including Burberry Prorsum, Burberry London, and Burberry Brit.
However, starting with the Fall/Winter 2016 collection, these were consolidated under the single BURBERRY brand.
Each discontinued sub-line retains its own design philosophy and is now regarded as highly collectible vintage items.
Burberry Prorsum（1999–2016）
The top-tier line, featuring trend-conscious designs and premium materials.
It merged the runway’s innovation with modern adaptations of classic trench coats, appealing to those who prioritize design and creativity.
Burberry London（1856–2016）
Focused on traditional British design.
With refined styles suitable for business settings, this line centered on classic trench coats built to be cherished for many years.
Burberry Brit（2009–2016）
A casual line characterized by approachable designs for everyday wear.
Popular among younger audiences, it offered lightweight, easy-to-move-in trench coats and outerwear.
Japanese Lines
Sanyo Shokai held licenses from the Burberry headquarters to develop and sell products specifically for the Japanese market.
While the license ended in 2015 and no new releases have been produced since, these items still circulate in the secondhand and outlet markets.
Adjusted for Japanese sizing and tastes, their pricing was generally lower than that of the mainline.
Burberry London (Sanyo Shokai Burberry, 1970–2015）
Retained traditional British design while optimizing comfort and usability for the Japanese market.
Known for its practicality and elegance, this line featured navy-colored tags.
Blue Label（1996–2015）
Image source：BLUE LABEL CRESTBRIDGE
A women’s line aimed at younger audiences, roughly ages 10–30.
Designs incorporated Burberry’s iconic check pattern in charming yet refined styles, balancing cuteness with sophistication.
The line is currently sold as Blue Label Crestbridge.
Black Label（1998–2015）
Image source：BLACK LABEL CRESTBRIDGE
A men’s line targeting ages 20–40.
It appealed to those who preferred urban, modern styles, featuring simple, sophisticated designs.
This line is now marketed as Black Label Crestbridge.
Key Differences : Mainline Burberry (UK Line) vs. Sanyo Shokai Burberry (Japanese Line)
When choosing a vintage trench coat, it is important to be aware of which line the product belongs to.
The main differences are as follows:
| Mainline Burberry | Sanyo Shokai Burberry | |
| Country of Manufacture | United Kingdom | Japan |
| Sizing | ・Designed according to European/American standards ・Many designs intended for oversized wear |
・Slightly smaller to fit Japanese body types ・Designed for a more precise fit |
| Materials | ・Gabardine cotton, high-quality wool, etc. ・Designed to develop character and texture over time |
・Lighter materials and color tones compared to the UK line ・High-quality but aging may be less pronounced |
| Price Range | Higher | Lower than the UK line |
| Design & Features | ・Faithful reproduction of traditional details ・Nova check colors follow the UK specifications |
・UK design adapted slightly for Japanese market ・Check patterns and lining may be modified for Japan |
| Tag Identification | ・Black or beige tags ・Often marked “MADE IN ENGLAND” |
・Navy tags ・Includes Japanese care instructions |
Tip for choosing
・Prioritize craftsmanship and luxurious materials → Mainline Burberry
・Prioritize fit for Japanese body type and everyday wear → Sanyo Shokai Burberry
By checking the tags and stitching carefully, you can select a vintage trench coat that fits you perfectly and avoid future regrets.
Features of Vintage Trench Coats
Image source：BURBERRY
Vintage trench coats incorporate traditional details throughout their design:
- Double-Breasted Design
The chest is covered with a double layer to enhance wind resistance, helping to maintain body warmth even in cold or harsh weather conditions. - Umbrella Back (Yoke)
Extending from the shoulders to the back, this design prevents rainwater from running directly down the back. - Gun Flap
Originally designed to protect the coat from wear when officers carried rifles on their shoulders.
These details are not merely decorative; they demonstrate functionality and durability, designed to withstand battlefield conditions and severe weather.
Features of the Nova Check Trench Coat
- Materials
Made from high-quality cotton and polyester, these coats offer guaranteed durability and premium quality. - Design
Traditional details such as a double-breasted front, belt, umbrella back (yoke), and gun flap are carefully incorporated. - Lining
The iconic Nova check lining showcases the brand’s identity from the inside, making the coat instantly recognizable. - Size and Fit
Available in a wide range of sizes for both women and men, oversized styling is also popular. - Vintage Value
The softness of the fabric developed over time, natural aging, and the rarity of tags and stitching enhance the coat’s value as a collector’s item.
Why Vintage Trench Coats Are Special
Image source：BURBERRY
A vintage trench coat is more than just clothing—it is a collector’s item with historical significance. Thanks to durable materials and meticulous craftsmanship, the quality remains intact even after many years of wear.
Items labeled “Burberrys” are especially rare and highly sought after by collectors.
Additionally, with proper care, the fabric develops a unique texture and character, further enhancing its charm. By paying attention to cleaning and storage, these coats can be preserved and passed down to future generations.
Buying Tips
When buying a vintage trench coat, keep the following in mind:
- Tag Label
Check whether it reads “Burberrys” or “BURBERRY.” - Size & Fit
Many vintage pieces are oversized and differ from modern sizing. - Material Condition
Inspect gabardine fabric, buttons, and belts for wear or damage. -
Nova Check Condition
Check for fading or fraying of the lining pattern.
By following these points, you can select a vintage piece that will remain wearable for years.
Proper care and storage will further help maintain its beautiful condition.
Care & Storage Tips
Proper care and storage are essential to preserve the charm of a vintage trench coat.
Cleaning
- After wearing, gently remove dust and dirt with a soft clothing brush, paying special attention to collars and cuffs.
- Small stains can be lightly dabbed with a soft cloth moistened with water.
- For oily stains, sprinkle a small amount of baby powder or cornstarch, let it absorb, then gently brush off.
- Avoid washing machines or household detergents; it is best to use a dry cleaner experienced with vintage clothing.
Storage
- Use a wooden or padded hanger that fits the shoulder width to prevent deformation.
- Utilize moth repellents or protective covers, and store in a well-ventilated area with 40–60% humidity.
- Avoid direct sunlight and periodically air the coat to prevent mold and maintain fabric quality.
- Every six months, inspect buttons, belts, and stitching, and have any necessary repairs done by a professional.
By checking the condition when purchasing and following these care and storage guidelines, a vintage trench coat can be cherished and worn across generations.
Conclusion
The vintage Nova check trench coat by Burberrys is a masterpiece reflecting British tradition and classic elegance. Combining durable materials, refined design, and the brand’s signature Nova check, this coat has been loved for decades and holds value as a lifetime wardrobe piece.
With regular care and proper storage, the fabric softens and develops even more character over time, making each wear a special experience. A coat that embodies history and tradition while seamlessly fitting into modern fashion is truly a trench coat to treasure for life.
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